What drew you to the food ecosystem of Meghalaya?
Niyati Rao: There is an incredible raw, untamed honesty to the indigenous ingredients and foraging traditions of Meghalaya that you simply don’t encounter anywhere else. When you taste things like smoked pork infused with wild perilla seeds or local Khasi spices, it completely reframes how you look at regional Indian flavour profiles. It’s an ecosystem that forces you to strip away modern pretension and respect what the terrain naturally provides. For someone who thrives on culinary research and unexpected fermentation, stepping into those mountains felt like opening an entirely new archive of taste.
What kind of research did you dive into once the idea of Nonna Mei emerged and you began work on the menu?
Niyati Rao: With Nonna Mei, the research was all about finding that precise intersection of comfort and curiosity without ever feeling forced or pretentious. We didn’t want a superficial mashup. I spent hours dissecting flavour structures, looking at how homestyle comfort food techniques could be elevated while retaining their soul. It involved deep-dive experimentation with textures, balancing spice and umami, and ensuring that every single dish told a distinct story rather than reading as a gimmick on the menu.
And, of course, finding similarities between Italian and Khasi sensibilities!
What can Mumbai’s diners expect from the pop-up?
Niyati Rao: Expect food that refuses to play by the usual rules but still feels deeply comforting. We are bringing flavours that challenge conventional notions of what dining out in the city looks like: bold, unapologetic and layered with the kind of care that comes from a kitchen that genuinely loves what it does. It’s not about stiff, white-tablecloth fine dining; it’s an immersive, soulful experience that stays with you long after the meal is over. And it’s a lot of fun! It’s family-style dining.
What are some of your favourite picks?
Niyati Rao: I always gravitate towards dishes that have a bit of fire and grit to them: anything featuring deep, smoky charcoal notes, robust spice finishes and textures that keep you hooked from the first bite to the last. If I had to pick, I’d lean straight into the plates that bring out those complex, earthy regional nuances we’ve spent months perfecting.
I cannot just pick one. Trust me, you will know when you try them.
TILL: October 25
AT: Olive Bar & Kitchen, 14 Union Park, Khar West
CALL: 8037080062 for reservations
Straight from the mountains
Chef Harsh Parikh, head chef at Olive Bar & Kitchen
For us, this collaboration is about bringing a new perspective to the Olive table and giving Mumbai diners the opportunity to experience Nonna Mei’s distinctive approach to Italian cooking. Over three days, the menu will showcase the coming together of Italian techniques, Northeast Indian ingredients, and Khasi influences in an experience that is relaxed, engaging and centred on sharing good food.
