For Bengalis, mishti is far more than dessert; it is woven into every celebration, festival and family gathering, with every sweet carrying a personality and a story of its own. That enduring tradition has gained fresh recognition, with Chandannagar’s iconic Jolbhora Sandesh recently being awarded a Geographical Indication (GI) tag on June 29, honouring the town’s confectionery heritage.
Ananya Banerjee fills the perfect Jolbhara Sandesh. Pics courtesy/Banchharam, Ananya Banerjee
“According to local folklore, confectioner Surjya Kumar Modak created the sweet for a zamindar’s visiting son-in-law by concealing fragrant syrup inside what appeared to be an ordinary sandesh, turning the first bite into an unforgettable surprise,” explains Mumbai-based home chef Ananya Banerjee.
The Surjya Kumar Modak sweet shop in Chandannagar, Hooghly is widely regarded as the birthplace of the iconic mishti, Jolbhora Sandesh. Pics courtesy/Facebook, Surjya Kumar Modak
While the seasonal Nolen Gur version is a favourite among Bengalis, the classic white Jolbhora is made year-round with fresh chhena — an unripened, soft cottage cheese used in Indian sweets — and a sugar syrup centre.
Surjya Kumar Modak
Depending on the confectioner, the outer shell may be prepared as norom pak, with a softer, more delicate texture, or kora pak, which is firmer and holds its shape better. To understand the technique behind this deceptively simple confection, chef Banerjee helps us decode the recipe.
Jolbhara Sandesh
A norom pak Jolbhara Sandesh
INGREDIENTS
>> 500 gms fresh cow’s milk chhena
>> 100–120 gms fine caster sugar or powdered sugar
>> 1 tsp rose water or kewra water (optional)
>> Thick sugar syrup (for the filling)
METHOD
Hang the freshly prepared chhena for about 30-40 minutes so that it remains moist but not watery. Knead it with the sugar until smooth and silky. Cook over a low heat for 3–5 minutes, stirring continuously until it just comes together. Avoid overcooking. Allow it to cool completely, then knead it again until smooth. Prepare a thick sugar syrup and allow it to cool. You may flavour it lightly with rose water. Shape a small portion of the sandesh into a cup, fill the centre with a spoonful of syrup, and carefully seal it. Mould it traditionally or shape it by hand, then chill briefly before serving.
Find your mishti
Within Mumbai:
Pic courtesy/Sandesh & Beyond
>> Sandesh & beyond
At Shop number 41, behind Jankalyan Bank, Gandhi Bazar, Chembur. Call 9004760043
Cost Rs 350 onwards
>> Banchharam
At Shop 131, 1st Floor, Galleria Shopping Mall, Hiranandani Gardens, Powai. (Also available at Ghansoli and Vashi)
Call 8697975769
Cost Rs 200 onwards
>> Sweet Bengal
At Bandra, Vile Parle, Andheri, Goregaon, Malad, Kandivli, Mira Road, Dadar, Matunga, Kurla, Chembur, Powai, Vashi, Thane, Kalyan, CBD Belapur
Call 7738432872
Cost Rs 585 onwards
Straight from Kolkata:
For a taste closer to the original, these Kolkata confectioners will prepare and courier freshly made Jolbhora Sandesh with advance orders. Delivery typically takes 24–48 hours
Pic courtesy/Ganguram
>> Ganguram
At Everest House, Ground Floor, 46C, Chowringhee Road, Kolkata.
Call 79806 96322
Pic courtesy/Banglar Misti
>> Banglar Misti
At 87/22, Yogoda Abasan, AK Mukherjee Road, Palpara, Baranagar, Kolkata.
Call 9830019105
