This writer’s first introduction to Tamil Nadu’s connection to the Far East Asia was through cinema; in names like ‘Malaysia’ Vasudevan, or Ninaithale Inikkum (1979) featuring Kamal Haasan and Rajinikanth in their prime, prancing through Singapore. “The similarities will surprise you,” admits Krish Shah, chef de cuisine, Tanjore Tiffin Room, who is currently overseeing a limited edition collaborative Malaysian-Tamil pop-up of the restaurant and The Penang Table in Bandra.
Kizhi Parotta with Madras Railway Curry
The spice trade
Having spent almost a decade in Malaysia, Shah prepared for the pop-up with a road trip across Madurai, Dindigul, Karaikudi, Tanjore, and Chennai. “It is disappointing when people think idli and dosa sum up Tamil cuisine,” he says. In fact, he recommends pairing the idli with a spicy Meen Kolumbu (Fish Curry).
Ambur Bada Gosht with Mini Noolu Parotta
“Madurai, like Malaysia, has hawkers serving poriyals (fried treats), varuvals (roasted treats), and salnas (gravy). Migrants from Karaikudi-Chettinad belt brought these recipes and traditions with them,” Shah adds. The difference lies in the use of aromats like the star anise, pandan, and cardamom, alongside the use of coconut milk in Malaysian dishes.
Eastern techniques
Mayandi Lamb Pepper Chops
The menu at The Penang Table this week includes familiar dishes like the Kizhi Parotta with Madras Railway Curry, or the Jackfruit Curry Dosa with Salna. Once in Malaysia, these dishes evolved. “A varuval in Malaysia is made on a wok. So, the flavour that comes through is that of Wok Hay,” he explains.
That’s tempting enough for us to dig into the fare.
Krish Shah tries a spread during his road trip in Madurai. Pics Courtesy/The Penang Table; Tanjore Tiffin Room
TILL September 13 (lunch and dinner)
AT The Penang Table, The Navachandra Niwas, Linking Road, Bandra West.
CALL 9076279090
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Krish Shah
History routes
The Far East and South India were connected by trade that goes back to the Chola Empire. By the time the Europeans arrived, this connection was entrenched.
Kurush Dalal
Variants of rice and steaming traditions have travelled both ways. Also, the use of coconut milk, spices like cardamom and anise in our curries comes from Malaysia and Indonesia. The roti canai, for instance, also travelled to India, and found a new home.
Kurush Dalal, culinary historian
