The lively, chaotic buzz at a restaurant during service is the stark opposite from pre-service, which witnesses a different kind of frenzy. We get a glimpse of the prep as we walk into the newly-opened Pizzeria Americano, dished out by chef Alex Sanchez and partner Mallyeka Watsa, at Fort. “Last night, we made 150 pizzas,” the chef reveals.
“We’re reliving pre-opening energy from Americano and Otra,” he says with a wired laugh. He points out he needs a service station to stock cutlery and plates. “When you design an apartment, you can slowly change things over time. Here, it’s kind of a matter of life-and-death,” he adds. The space has the upbeat vibe of a bar, and the seriousness of pizza supremacy. The open kitchen and bar seating on the ground level offers a dekko of all the action. The level above via a winding metallic stairway is executed in earthy tones.
Get adventurous with the Char Siu Chicken (Rs 1050), Chinese BBQ Chicken chunks and spring onions, a drizzle of a viscous peanut hoisin topped with mozzarella. It’s the sort of after-party reminder of Asian indulgence; the chewy pie holds it together well
Americano was an ode to Sanchez’s love for Italian food, and the pizzas, including the Kejriwal with its runny egg and Pink Panther in a special sauce, earned a loyal fan following. The pizzeria is an opportunity for Sanchez to deviate from Americano’s Italian-inspired pizzas that are softer and cooked at a higher temperature. “These are a tender and delicate serve, but crispy. They have a little bit of a crust, which is Italian-style, but they’re not soft. Call it a hybrid, with adventurous toppings,” says Sanchez, adding that pizza reminds him of birthdays, and Friday nights. “If we were getting pizza, you’d be like the happiest person in the world back home.”
It has been 16 years in the city for Sanchez, from The Table, to building three restaurants with his partner. While Americano’s instant success was met with challenges in the pandemic, Otra took its time to find grounding. “I’ve learned a lot about myself over the last eight years. There’s a saying in the chef community that there’s a great chef, but nobody comes to their restaurant, [so] are they a great chef? You can be as creative or interesting or new as you want. But if people aren’t really coming, then, are you great? It was important for me to understand demand, and who I was cooking for. In the process, I learnt that I enjoy cooking food for the people,” says Sanchez.
(From left) Alex Sanchez cuts the pizza dough and shapes the base; spreads the cheese before the sauce; Sanchez prepares the Trenton pizza, drizzling an uneven layer of sauce over the mozzarella instead of slathering it. Pics/Ashish Raje; Phorum Pandya; Special Arrangement
At 42, it’s Alex 2.0. He misses reading to his two-and-a-half-year-old son due to late nights in the kitchen, and is learning to align work and personal life. He continues to run a tight ship. “I don’t want anyone on my team to not be able to go to another kitchen and kick ass. But at the same time, I don’t want them to be so overworked, which they are during this launch,” he admits.
The beverage programme offers cocktails, zero-proofs and sodas. Bar manager Sumit Patil makes us a clarified Amalfi Spritzer (left) R800 that is zesty with an in-house limoncello with a fragrant finish of basil and bergamot. The non-alcoholic Shirley Temple (right) Rs 500 has fruity grenadine, ginger ale, cherry and soda
As he works the dough, there is a shift in energy that is almost Zen-like. There is a calming effect to watching him stretch it out. He smiles, “We’re still getting the rhythm right, but it’s great for all the nerves, I think we’re all enjoying this. I learnt a lot from Rachel [Andreda]. She’s one of the bakers who I respect, not only for her skill, but also how she operates.”
Mallyeka Watsa and Alex Sanchez
Before we take a seat at the high seat by the bar counter for a tasting, we ask if he has ever tasted the Bombay desi pizza, complete with capsicum, onion, and Amul cheese. “I’ve had the Mexican pizza at Swati [Snacks]. That’s what I like about pizza, it is totally democratic,” he signs off.
Dessert is Butterscotch Pudding (Rs 675) with a base pudding under a thick layer of decadent caramel fudge topped with chantilly and crunchy almond brittle
AT Rajabahadur Mansion, Mumbai Samachar Marg, Fort.
TIME 5.30 pm to 1 am
CALL 9967604682
