Last year, we took a 12-hour-long bus ride from Berne to Florence, just to meet David. The sculpture by Michelangelo stands tall at Accademia Gallery. We’ve eaten Italian food across the world, but the pizza at a bus stop in Genoa, the tiramisu at a bistro, the gelato at the piazza and the affogato at a local café has convinced us that the Italians take their food craft seriously.
Earlier this week, we had dined at Fieno, an Italian restaurant by Churchgate Hospitality, led by founder Pranav Rungta of Café Royale fame and co-founder Anurag Katriar. The space, designed by ns*a Architecture, celebrates the heritage of Amarchand Mansion, in all its architectural glory. The ambiance gently introduces the Italian concept of a campagna into it. Within the private dining section, a miniature wine cellar guards a collection of 120 wines curated by Nikhil Agarwal of All Things Nice. “Travel became an essential part of people’s lives post the pandemic; they rediscovered cuisines across the world. The cuisine missing in this part of SoBo was Italian, so we decided to address that,” explains Rungta.
The menu dishes out traditional cuisine across regions, the way Italians do it. Enter: executive chef Bruno Ferrari and head chef Joao Pedro. Chef Ferrari’s career spans Michelin-recognised restaurants. When we ask if they add herbs to the olive oils, his response is stoic: “Would you buy an expensive bottle of wine and you put water in it? Appreciate the original flavour of the oils. Also, we never pour olive oil and vinegar. It is against our gastronomic religion in Italy.”
We savour this advice in the olive tray experience that offers patrons three select pours. We are served a pav-bun with rosemary and thyme, sourdough focaccia with caramelised onions and house sourdough bread. Chef Pedro, who packed his bags in April to move from Marche in central Italy, to Mumbai, is 26. On adapting the cuisine in another country, Pedro confesses it was a challenging process. “We replaced buff with lamb in the Bolognese sauce. An Italian will never want to change a recipe, but we’re happy with the outcome,” he admits.
AT Fieno, Amarchand Mansion, Madame Cama Road, Colaba
TIME 7 pm to 12 am (all days)
CALL 9761075555
Costolette d’Agnello alla Scottadito (Rs 2850)
Medium rare Australian Lamb Chops, with a side of purple potato crisps and lamb Jus. The fragrance of smoked rosemary seeps into the meat, and gives the charcoaled edges an herby punch.
Quattro Formaggi e Tartufo Nero (Rs 1150)
A pizza revelation, this four-cheese iteration comes with Buffalo Mozzarella, Parmigiano Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, Blue Cheese.
Pallotte Cacio e Uova con Fonduta di Pecorino (Rs 850)
Cheese dumplings from Ferrari’s hometown, Abruzzo, have a hard casing and an airy, doughy texture inside served in San Marzano tomato sauce and Pecorino Romano Fondue with fried basil. It is a rare find even in the region we are told.
Flan ai Funghi (Rs 950)
Mixed Mushroom Flan has a velvety custard texture with an additional creaminess of fondue. Microgreens give a peppery crunch.
Ravioletti del Plin Burro e Salvia (Rs 1200)
Hand-folded pasta parcels filled with braised Australian lamb, and served with a buttery lamb jus with sage. The jus is glossy, like a treacle.
Salut!
The cocktails reflect Terra, Mare, and Terroir or land, sea and cultural landscape. Fieno Blanco (R1250) is an earthy refreshing drink with gin, white wine and sage cordial leaving a salty finish. All Negronis (R1000) are made in a trolley at the table. Mixologist Rakesh Parmar pours gin, vermouth and Campari into a tumbler and gives it a gentle stir. He finishes it with a peel of orange. Try the one with a dash of olive oil. The smoothness from the fat has a textural appeal.
Desserts
The Pistachio experience; (inset) Lemon sorbet. Pics/Ashish Raje
Italian desserts balance decadent serves as well as light sorbets. The Lemon Sorbet (Rs 550) comes in an Amalfi lemon and churned with honey, lemon juice, Limoncello and sparkling water, giving each bite a crisp finish. Fieno celebrates the emerald-coloured nut seven times over in the Pistachio experience (Rs 2500). A pistachio ganache filled lava cake, topped with foam mousse, dollop of ice cream, dry cake, crumble and caramelised nuts.
