Envisioned like a European bar, Papi is pretty and inviting. African weaves, colourful portraits and soothing playlist that reads the room and builds tempo into the night. It’s a resto-bar where you can listen to your companions and listen to the beats. The kitchen has dramatic shutters that offer a glimpse of the service.
We are here for the earlier shift, when the restaurant is picking pace. Ten in-house cocktails named as numbers add a contemporary spin to the classics. They also offer three cocktails — Paloma, Espresso Martini and Aperol Spritz — on tap that have our interest piqued. From the bar, we get 3 (Rs 800), the martini inspired cucumber and watermelon drink with dill brine.
Spicy Hummus with Jackfruit Barbacoa
The expected saltiness is overpowered by sweet. The number 6 (Rs 800), a vodka-infused with lychee and yuzu, promises sake and gari brine. The tropical fruit dominates, and we crave for more yuzu and gari brine. With 4 (Rs 850), a gin-infused limoncello and lavender soda is sessionable, but the hype of cocktails on taps is disappointing as our Aperol (Rs 850) is flat, and lacks body and freshness.
Aperol on tap
The food saves the day. Chef Dev Rawat, who has worked alongside chef Sandeep Sreedharan in Goa’s Mahe, takes us on a detour across coastal, Latin, Pan-Asian and Italian fare. The Coconut Carpaccio (Rs 630) with a passion fruit lychee de tigre and pearls of sea grape lacks salt. We prefer the Salmon Crudo (Rs 810), which has a coconut chilli emulsion that is better balanced in flavours landing a tart lift and a spicy finish.
A view of the interiors
The Spicy Hummus with Jackfruit Barbacoa (Rs 720) is served with the lightest Balloon Bread. The grilled jackfruit has a smoky finish and meaty texture. They also have an Aubergine Reachado version (Rs 720) that packs in the Goan masala punch. The Peking Duck (Rs 720) stands out as the lacquered and glossy meat comes on a pillowy cloud of gnocco fritto topped with a scallion hoisin mascarpone. The Seafood Paella (Rs 1260) has squid, tiger prawn and clam. It hits the right spots, with its greasy bites. The socarrat on the bottom of the pan has the perfect crispy-burnt taste.
Cocktail 3. PICS/ATUL KAMBLE
Dessert arrives in a trio of animal mugs. The Dark Chocolate Mousse (Rs 777) is decadent but the Tiramisu (Rs 777) is unimpressive and the Sticky Toffee Tres Leches (Rs 777) is too milky. Our dream clouds are made of that balloon bread.
AT Papi, Ground Floor, 712, Bajaj Niwas, Off Linking Road, next to AND showroom, Khar West.
TIME 6.30 pm to 1 am
